I began drafting this post before I had learned the extent of the devastation to Ludlow, Vermont, and surrounding areas from Hurricane Irene. I’m posting it now anyway since many of the businesses mentioned have already reopened, and hopefully the others will soon.
If you want to help, consider donating to: Salvation Army, which has provided emergency services in the area, or the Green Mountain chapter of the American Red Cross. The Burlington Free Press has compiled a list of organizations.
Atop Okemo Mountain in Ludlow, Vermont
My Summer Vacation: I went to Ludlow, Vermont, for a surprise birthday party for one of my favorite relatives. After the party, it rained a lot (but nothing like it rained two weeks later during Irene). I read books. One of them was Super Sad True Love Story by Gary Shteyngart. Riots raged in the UK. This was eerie after reading the book. I turned off the telly. I tried hard not to look at my äppärät. I took naps and watched water droplets roll down the window panes. The rain stopped. I walked up and down the hilly roads on Okemo Mountain. I hope I burned a lot of calories because during the rest of the trip I ate. A lot.
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Willy, of Ludlow Cooking Company
While driving along Route 103 South one day, I spotted a hand-painted sign that said “Lobster Rolls.” Screech; u-turn. I was a lobster roll virgin until I met Willy of the Ludlow Cooking Company (no website; 802-228-3080). The roll was everything I thought it would be: flavorful, tender and…simple. Just a light mayo dressing on big chunks of meat, a coupla’ of crunchy lettuce leaves and a toasty bun.
A lobster roll at Ludlow Cooking Company, Ludlow, Vermont
Willy used to live on Long Island and moved to Vermont in the late ’90s. He closes during ski season, so get your roll before the snow flies. (Just spoke to Willy, who says LCC is open.)
From Pleasant Valley Foods in Proctorsville, I happened across some maple-smoked gouda from Taylor Farm. I grabbed it from the case because, frankly–I never thought I’d say this–I was tiring of cheddar. The delicate gouda was a lucky find–soft, sweet and not overly smoky. I shared it with guests; it was gone fast.
I also found The World’s Best Blueberry Pie Ev-ah at Pleasant Valley Foods. I’m not sure if it was made on-site or by a local baker, but it was fantastic, with its crunchy, buttery crumbs on top and tons of fresh berries. I added a scoop of maple cream ice cream from Walpole Creamery. My eyes are welling up just thinking about it. (Unfortunately PVF’s Facebook page says they won’t be reopening after the flooding.)
View from the Green Mountain Sugar House (best taken in with maple creemee in a waffle cone in hand)
Also in the dessert department, we stopped at Green Mountain Sugar House for a “maple creemee”–soft-serve vanilla ice cream with maple syrup. The. Perfect. Summer. Afternoon. Calorie-Splurge. Park it by the picnic table and take in the lake view. (The GMSH website says they’re open.)
In the bins at Singleton’s General Store I found some smoked pepperoni, which I purchased for Mr. TravelerWrites but then ate most of myself. (Singleton’s is open.)
Ever-forgiving, Mr. TW shared with me a hunk of the dry aged sirloin he ordered at Sam’s Steakhouse. Fennel-peppercorn crusted with gorgonzola butter. I’m not a huge carnivore but it was, well, amazingly delicious and melt-in-your-mouth tender. The salad bar at Sam’s also is worth a trip in its own right. (Unfortunately the website says the restaurant currently is closed because of storm damage.)
A few miles away, in Springfield, my uncle turned us on to Black Rock Steakhouse, which opened earlier this year. You cook your own meat at the table on a 700 degree stone. Fun concept and another great salad bar–I didn’t think it was quite as good or varied as Sam’s but it was still solid and fresh. (Facebook page indicates they’re open.)
Last but not least, we had an excellent meal at Coleman Brook Tavern in the Jackson Gore Inn, again thanks to my uncle. I have to admit, on my way into the restaurant I almost cattily whispered “I really hope this is good” to Mr. TW. I had no reason to doubt the place, but I’m skeptical of food quality–and dismayed by often ridiculously high prices–at hotel restaurants. This was a refreshing and lesson-teaching surprise. From the mildly tangy goat cheese on our salads and the woodsy, meaty mushroom tart to the creamy pate (not kind to the poor animal, I know, but it was ordered and I tasted) and the braised beef short ribs–it was all delicious, carefully prepared and nicely presented. The prices weren’t bargain-basement but, given the quality and service, they seemed more than fair. I was impressed. (The tavern is open.)
Goodman’s American Pie came highly recommended for pizza, but it was closed the two nights we wanted to go. (And currently is closed from storm damage; check the FB page for updates.)
Been to or live in the Ludlow/Okemo area of southern Vermont? What are your local favorites?
Finally, many thanks to John of MyVermontVacation for some great food recommendations–and for renting us his lovely home. (John did not pay for this link or cut me a deal on the rental.)
